Siem Reap itinerary (temples and ruins)

The temple and city complexes of the Khmer kings tend to get clumped together in public consciousness as Angkor Wat, though there is far more to see than just that famous behemoth. And seriously, although you will suffer temple fatigue after a while, there is a lot to be said for taking your time to explore the greater area beyond the Big (Grand) and Small (Petit) circuits of the central Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom complexes. And this means setting aside 3-5 days and forking out for a 3-day pass. Although my guide book says the days must run consecutively, I think that it is possible (perhaps with a higher cost) to buy a 3-day pass for non-consecutive days. A great way to enjoy "Angkor" to the maximum and be kind to your senses and feet!

Here is my itinerary with a glimpse of what I saw. The photos are all organised in a similar way on Shutterfly. The links here are to the Lonely Planet website. I used the tuk-tuk driver who took me from the bus drop-off in Siem Reap to the hotel. I didn't really haggle with him, so over the three days I paid $15, $30 (?) and $20. Maybe I could have got it cheaper, but he was reliable, friendly, and like so many Cambodians spoke English well. The lunch stops he took me to were well-priced and he was just happy to have the work.

Day 1:
Angkor Wat For a long time now I have wanted to come to Angkor Wat - meaning the gigantic temple complex of that name as well as having a more amorphous idea of other temples. Finally here I was, taking in the immensity of it all and feeling ... well, for some reason a little bit underwhelmed by it!

I'm not saying don't go, and I'm not saying you won't appreciate the architecture, art and scale of it. Angkor Wat really is top of the list. I think maybe it's just that I didn't find it to be breath-taking in the manner I had anticipated.

Bayon is where all those faces are looking down on you and out on the world. This was the second place on my itinerary and the start of a personal feeling of incredulity that we are permitted to tramp all over most of this irreplaceable heritage. Can you do that to other major architectural historical sites around the world?

Baphuon is a great example of how life can interrupt art. It was under a full-scale restoration, which had commenced by pulling the entire temple apart (the anastylosis method) and recording how each piece fitted together, when the civil war of the mid-1970s forced the team out of the country and led to all documentation being destroyed. Now, amazingly, the restoration is almost complete.


Thommanon, Waterwheel and Chau Say Tevada
Thommanon is a small temple, and is one of the places that I liked immediately. There are a few buildings with some fine stone carvings set in a grove of trees. Nearby is a large waterwheel. Chau Say Tevada is a companion temple to Thommanon although in worse repair.


Ta Keo is a very different structure to many of the Angkor temples because it was not finished, and so does not have the stone carvings found at most other temples. It is a steep but rewarding climb to the top to reach the central tower and has some good views over the land around.


Ta Prohm is different again because a lot of the jungle remains, although discreetly trimmed back . A great place to imagine you are re-discovering the temples! Ta Prohm also featured in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider.



Banteay Kdei and Sra Srang. I came to Sra Srang twice: at the end of the first day and then again at about 5am the next morning to wait for the sunrise. A peaceful place and a good alternative to battling the crowds wanting to see sunrise at Angkor Wat, especially on a cloudy morning. The pool allowed for some fantastic reflections and amplifications of the light.

Day 2:
Kbal Spean is a unique piece of architecture because it is not a building, but instead a natural temple created by carving directly into the rock beds and boulders of a stream. A long trip from Siem Reap, I combined it with sunrise at Sra Srang and made it to Kbal Spean for breakfast at about 7.30am. We set out so early that I was the first visitor to arrive. From the parking and restaurant area it is an uphill walk for about 45 minutes to reach the carvings that start at a bridge across the stream and then work back down the stream to a waterfall.

Banteay Srei - another favourite place for the carvings and the use of pink sandstone, Banteay Srei is also unusual because it is all very low to the ground. There are no towers or enormous platforms supporting the structures here.

Cambodia Land Mines Museum (see Museums: Cambodia)






Eastern Mebon












Ta Som and Pre Rup













Day 3:
Preah Khan and Preah Neak Pean
Preah Khan was one of those places where I just kept taking photographs. It is one of the largest complexes - one reason for the photo-overdrive - but it also has many corridors and great carvings.

Nearby is Preah Neak Pean a small temple which consists mainly of five square pools. I was lucky enough to arrive when the water was still and again benefited from using the water as a mirror.

Preah Ko, Bakong and Lolei are known as the Roulos group of temples and are some of the oldest large, permanent temples built by the Khmers. During my visit to Preah Ko and Bakong I met with a local man who works on the restoration of these temples. He showed me some of the work that he has been doing in replacing bricks and some carved stonework as well as the materials that are used to create the mortar, in the same fashion as was used originally.

Kompong Phhluk and Tonle Sap (see Water - in more than form!)